The deep red of Garnet, in three sizes that echo one another: rounds, faceted beads, and a line of tiny rondelles that gives the necklace all its delicacy. On the back, a fine chain in 24K fine gold slides through a stopper bead. Pull, and it’s set: the clasp stays closed, and the small hammered pendant hanging at the nape becomes a detail of the jewelry.
To wear your necklace close to the neck or a little lower depending on the neckline, without ever taking it off. And to give your designs a more sophisticated finish.
Tools needed: flat pliers (1.5 mm tapered flat pliers Beadsmith or pink flat pliers), cutting pliers (pink cutting pliers), 0.4 mm brass thread for the needle trick (0.4 mm flexible brass thread plated in 24K fine gold)
The necklace plays on three Garnet sizes to create relief. One module is a 2 × 4 mm faceted bead, a 5 mm round bead, then a 2 × 4 mm faceted bead.
String one first module onto the wire. Continue with 20 Garnet 2 × 1 mm rondelles. Repeat the sequence: one module, 20 rondelles. You make 10 modules in all, for a threading of about 37 cm.
The rondelles are very fine. Place them on a bead mat and pierce them with the thread, aiming for the hole. It is long and painstaking. But it’s this line of tiny beads that gives the necklace its delicacy.
On one side of the thread, string a crimp bead, then the clasp attachment. Pass the thread back through the crimp bead. Bring it back to the edge of the attachment, then flatten it with the flat pliers. Place a knot cover around the crimped bead and close it for a neat finish. Thread the wire back through three beads, then cut off the excess. Bring all the beads back toward the attachment.
On the other side, string a crimp bead, then the last link of the fine chain. Pass the thread back through the crimp bead, then through three beads. Pull the thread to adjust the spacing and tension. The necklace should remain supple, with no visible space between the beads. Crimp the bead, cut off the excess thread, then add the second knot cover.
Open the ring of the buoy clasp with flat pliers. Attach it to the bail of the stopper bead, then close the ring.
Pass the fine chain through the stopper bead, helping yourself with the brass-wire needle (see the tip below). Slide the chain to check that it glides well, with slight resistance.
Adjust the chain length. Here, about 7 cm are kept for adjustment. At the end of the chain, attach the hammered pendant with an oval ring. It acts as a stop: the chain can no longer come out of the stopper bead.
Hook the buoy clasp onto the clasp attachment, once and for all. To shorten the necklace, pull on the chain. To lengthen it, release it. It slides through the stopper bead, and the clasp stays closed.
A fine chain does not thread like thread: it bends and catches in the stopper bead hole. Cut a piece of brass thread and fold it in half. Pass it through the last chain link. You get a rigid needle: it goes into the stopper bead and the chain follows.
The stopper bead also changes the way you wear your jewelry. No need anymore to open the clasp, aim for another link, and close it behind the nape without seeing. The extension chain remains a lovely solution, but here the adjustment is made in one gesture.
Keep the same construction and change the stone: the deep blue of Lapis lazuli, or the violet softness of Amethyst. The 24K fine gold finish goes with both.
The stopper bead also works on a bracelet. A bracelet that is easy to put on without help, adjusted to the wrist with a simple gesture.
Garnet — stone of energy and grounding, according to tradition
To be reserved alone or with friends!
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